Putty in the hands of someone that doesn’t know what they are doing is a disaster. We are talking about wood putty not silly putty! Side note: I loved silly putty as a kid.
To begin with, stainable wood putty never stains the same as the wood it is on. I’ve never met a paint contractor that uses it. Professionals use tinted putty and most importantly never use it until the wood has been stained and has at least one coat of sealer on it.
Occasionally we have to use an artists brush and stain the putty a bit to help blend it to the wood and then we seal it.
These photos are from a residential job where a lot of money was spent on new trim. A “non professional” applied wood putty to the miter joints before we were on site. Long story short, it all had to be removed and replaced. Expensive mistake! We knew the putty would not look right but stained some of it to prove the point and show the homeowner the disaster that had befallen them. These were really bad miter joints too by the way.
The defense from the putty applicator was that “it says it’s stainable”. Stainable yes. Matching the wood stainable? No.
Dry brushing stain is an acquired skill. Dry brushing in general is a term used to describe several different techniques like brushing stain over a painted surface, brushing to achieve a distressed look, brushing to highlight specific areas on a stained piece of furniture or wood, etc.
Dry brushing stain in this case was used to darken and highlight the grain on hand stained and wiped maple. The customer had factory finished cabinets and they wanted us to match that finish on new trim/doors and on a custom staircase.
Maple is a softwood so first it needed to be sanded and preconditioned. You usually want to precondition any soft wood prior to staining to achieve a uniform appearance. The “softer” areas of the wood soak up the preconditioner and this help to achieve a more uniform finished piece.
We make our own preconditioner on site and adjust the formula accordingly. We then sanded again and hand stained the wood using pieces of sheep skin. Once stained and dry we dry brushed additional stain to achieve the desired look. Often if you try to wipe stain a second time you will “wake up” the original coat of stain and actually remove stain from the wood rather then add to it.
Skim coating a wall is not too difficult. A little time and practice, and the right tools, will make you a pro in no time. The reason a wall is skim coated is usually because of an imperfection in the wall or damage to the wall from the removal of wallpaper for example.
It always a good idea to start by sealing the wall with an oil based primer. This is critical if wallpaper was removed from the wall. The water content in drywall mud will cause old wallpaper glue to come loose from the wall and create a mess. It’s a good habit to always seal the wall to be safe.
The faster method of skim coating is to mix the drywall mud with enough water to make it rollable. Once the mud is mixed you simply roll the mud on the wall and knife or blade it down. A slower method is to use straight drywall mud and knife or trowel it on the wall. The reason you may want to go the slower route is if there is a problem with having additional water content in the mud.
These photos are from a commercial job where we did oil seal the wall and then rolled a coat of mud only to discover before the second coat of mud that there was a second layer of wallpaper that was painted over and the oil primer was not enough to keep some of it from bubbling up. When this happens you simply cut out the bubble areas, reseal and mud again.
On this job we sanded the walls smooth, cut out the bubbles, oil primed the entire wall and the second coat of mud was knifed on to keep the water content down. Just to be safe.
It ended up being perfect once it was top coated with finish.